![]() ![]() You can learn more about these springs right here on the Team Z Motorsports website. These springs work best on 1979-93 Mustangs that weigh between 2,800-3,200 pounds and 1994-2004 Mustangs that weigh between 3,300-3,500 pounds. The springs also make sure the instant center of the rear suspension is correct, an important piece of the rear suspension puzzle.Īccording to Team Z, the improved geometry and additional weight transfer provided by the Stock Location Rear Drag Springs will lower a vehicle’s 60-foot times. These springs provide a progressive spring rate that’s ideal for drag racing and help the car achieve an optimal ride height. Team Z Rear Drag Springs (79-93) LRS-7993SLRS In Stock 199.99 Fox Body Maximum Motorsports Torque-Arm Springs (79-93) Maximum Motorsports Rear Torque-Arm Spring Pair (79-04) MM-MM43TA7 In Stock 175.00 Fox Body Spring Components (79-93) SVE Rear Axle Pinion Snubber - Urethane (86-04) LRS-70114BL-K In Stock 14. For our 92 we chose to buy the entire front and rear suspension. The Team Z Stock Location Rear Drag Springs filled the spring void, thanks to the special material they’re made of and improved design features. an email and hell tell you what is needed for your application. ![]() While these different methods to modify the springs for drag racing did work, they were far from perfect and didn’t provide consistent performance. In this video, Dave Zimmerman from Team Z Motorsports explains why the Team Z Stock Location Rear Drag Springs are a must-have item for Ford Mustang owners.īefore dedicated drag racing springs were widely available, racers would try all kinds of different tricks to get more performance out of OEM springs. The rear springs you put under your vehicle are critical to snagging all the traction that’s available. ![]() TALLER & WIDER is clearly the move, maybe I'll give the new NT-05 R's a shot, they're cheap enough.Horsepower is useless at the dragstrip if you can’t apply it to the surface of the track, and that’s why suspension tuning is so important. I know it'll get better in the heat (I go through this every year ) but I also know there is no way in hell I can race on them so I am going to have two sets of rear rims and tires and the new tires need to be better than what I currently have. I guess to their defense the L's do have insane low end tq but I've roasted these on the Cobra on 50 degree days and it's still like driving on ice. Tim, I've had 555R's on 3 Lightnings and I'm sorry but they were just useless to me, even in the heat of the summer and even after smoking the shit out of them. I would almost try the new Nitto NT-05 R but I've had such terrible luck with 555R's in the past on numerous Lightning's and now the Cobra that I'm afraid it would be another useless set of tires, although they look pretty cool. I dont think I can get way with 30" tall tires so I'm thinking 27-1/2" - 28" Tall is where I should go and that should be a HUGE DIFFERENCE compared to what I currently have. On my 9 sec L I used 30 x 13-1/2 tires on the street but this Cobra has a MUCH HIGHER Power To Weight Ratio and is 10 times worse for traction. I clearly have enough power to go an 1-1/2" taller and a 1-1/2" wider, my current tires are 26.41 x 12.01 If you dont have any side wall they cant do what they suppose to do and wont hook worth a shit. Usually I would go to a smaller wheel taller tires but since I dont have that choice I at least want to go taller so I dont end up with a low profile slick with no give. The 315's are a full inch shorter than what I currently have and the 335's are a half inch shorter. The problem is I ruled them out because they only have offer 315/30/18 & 335/30/18 and both are to short They would be 1.1 " Taller and 1.57" Wider than what I have now. So do you think in my case I could fit 345/35/18 ? (when the snow melts I'll get under and measure) ![]() So that tells me I can go another 1-1/2" wider and remove the spacer providing I have enough room on the inside, which I think I do. So they used 1" billet aluminum spacers behind the rear rims (for flush offset). I have a 8.8 SRA Rear (3.73 Gears, Eaton Posi, Moser 31 Spline Axles) that's 3/4" shorter on each side than the orig irc was. I know the 18" would be as good so going taller is a must for them to hook and of course wider. I've had luck with 15" Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag Radials before and will most likely go with them in 18" when I save a few more bucks. I currently have Brand New 305/35/18 Nitto NT555R's but they suck monkey ass for traction so I'll probably sell them while they're new with my current 18x10 Chrome Saleens or just keep them as my winter tires & rims. So I have another set of 18x10 Chrome Saleens on the way and I want to get some REAL Drag Radials for the rear (which have to double as Track Tires should I decide to have some fun on the 1320). Unfortunately due to the fact that my Cobra has 6 piston front and 4 piston rear calipers with 13" & 12" rotors I'm basically stuck with 18" rims. ![]()
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